Breeding
If a Cuvac shall be bred, the owner must provide x-ray certificated by OFA see example!
http://www.offa.org/hd_grades.html
Please click on the link OFFA to read about the importance of this x-ray
From 1982 till 2007 there was no duty examine hips in the Club. This changed in 2008!
Example for you to look at!
From the website of OFA:
The phenotypic evaluation of hips done by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals falls into seven
different categories. Those categories are Normal (Excellent, Good, Fair), Borderline, and
Dysplastic (Mild, Moderate, Severe). Once each of the radiologists classifies the hip into one of the
7 phenotypes above, the final hip grade is decided by a consensus of the 3 independent outside
evaluations. Examples would be:
Two radiologists reported Excellent, one Good—the final grade would be Excellent
One radiologist reported Excellent, one Good, one Fair—the final grade would be Good
One radiologist reported Fair, two radiologists reported Mild—the final grade would be Mild
The hip grades of Excellent, Good and Fair are within normal limits and are given OFA numbers.
This information is accepted by AKC on dogs with permanent identification (tattoo, microchip) and is
in the public domain. Radiographs of Borderline, Mild, Moderate and Severely dysplastic hip grades
are reviewed by the OFA radiologist and a radiographic report is generated documenting the
abnormal radiographic findings. Unless the owner has chosen the open database, dysplastic hip
grades are not in the public domain.
http://www.offa.org/hd_grades.html
Please click on the link OFFA to read about the importance of this x-ray
From 1982 till 2007 there was no duty examine hips in the Club. This changed in 2008!
Example for you to look at!
From the website of OFA:
The phenotypic evaluation of hips done by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals falls into seven
different categories. Those categories are Normal (Excellent, Good, Fair), Borderline, and
Dysplastic (Mild, Moderate, Severe). Once each of the radiologists classifies the hip into one of the
7 phenotypes above, the final hip grade is decided by a consensus of the 3 independent outside
evaluations. Examples would be:
Two radiologists reported Excellent, one Good—the final grade would be Excellent
One radiologist reported Excellent, one Good, one Fair—the final grade would be Good
One radiologist reported Fair, two radiologists reported Mild—the final grade would be Mild
The hip grades of Excellent, Good and Fair are within normal limits and are given OFA numbers.
This information is accepted by AKC on dogs with permanent identification (tattoo, microchip) and is
in the public domain. Radiographs of Borderline, Mild, Moderate and Severely dysplastic hip grades
are reviewed by the OFA radiologist and a radiographic report is generated documenting the
abnormal radiographic findings. Unless the owner has chosen the open database, dysplastic hip
grades are not in the public domain.
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AKC....
The best way to ensure a long and happy relationship with a purebred dog is to purchase from a
responsible breeder. While the AKC does not endorse or recommend specific breeders, we do offer several
resources to locate breeders. The AKC recommends puppy buyers begin the search process by contacting
the AKC Parent Club.
The "Slovensky Cuvac Dog Club of America 1982 is the Parent Club for AKC Breeder Referral
The AKC recommends puppy buyers begin the search process by contacting the AKC Parent Club.
Also you can contact the "Slovensky Cuvac Dog Club of America 1982"
at www.slovenskycuvacusa@gmail.com
The best way to ensure a long and happy relationship with a purebred dog is to purchase from a
responsible breeder. While the AKC does not endorse or recommend specific breeders, we do offer several
resources to locate breeders. The AKC recommends puppy buyers begin the search process by contacting
the AKC Parent Club.
The "Slovensky Cuvac Dog Club of America 1982 is the Parent Club for AKC Breeder Referral
The AKC recommends puppy buyers begin the search process by contacting the AKC Parent Club.
Also you can contact the "Slovensky Cuvac Dog Club of America 1982"
at www.slovenskycuvacusa@gmail.com
Sperm storage of the Slovensky Cuvac Dog Club of America.
Some breeders are opting to handle and store their own frozen semen, both to avoid storage costs and for the convenience of having their semen close at
hand. Handling and storing frozen semen is not difficult, but it must be done properly and safely. With the right equipment and practice, anyone can handle
and store their own frozen semen.
Basics:
Frozen semen is packaged in straws labeled with the Sire's name, which are put into cup-like plastic cylinders called goblets, which are then snapped onto
aluminum canes for storage. The canes have a label on top, where the Sire's name is written in permanent marker (a fine point “Sharpie” marker works well
for this). Straws, canes, and goblets are handled with straw tweezers. Protect fingers from nitrogen burns by wearing thin gloves.
Storage Tank:
The first item one needs for storage of frozen semen is, of course, a storage tank. There are many makes and models of tanks, but all are essentially the
same, being large cylinders of stainless steel or aluminum, with an inner vacuum lining somewhat like that of a thermos. There are from one to six storage
canisters inside. A canister sits well down inside the tank, and is pulled up by a long handle which notches into a groove in the neck of the tank. A used
storage tank can be purchased from representatives who service semen storage tanks for dairies and beef operations.
A. I. supply companies and frozen semen brokers also sell used tanks. The main difference between an older, used tank and a new one is the hold-time, or
the frequency with which the tank needs to be supplied with liquid nitrogen. A new tank can be topped-off every four months, while a used one will probably
need to be serviced every two months. As long as a tank is not frosting up on its exterior after filling, it is a secure tank. All tanks should be checked weekly
for signs of leakage and measuring of the nitrogen level. This is done by inserting a measuring device down the center of the tank. A tank should be kept
about half full, and its level never allowed to drop below three inches.
Equipment and Supplies:
Liquid nitrogen--available from welding and medical supply shops or from “door-to-door” suppliers
Liquid nitrogen measure--available from suppliers or make your own--use wood, plastic or metal--no cylindrical measures
Thin latex or cotton gloves--to protect fingers from nitrogen burns
Long-sleeved shirt--to protect skin against accidental splashing of nitrogen
Safety glasses--for eye protection
Straw tweezers--plastic (may be best for beginners) or stainless, for handling the individual straws, goblets and canes
Assistant--working between two tanks requires at least two people
Filling Containers:
Fill the vessels slowly to minimize contraction and expansion stresses. Never seal the vessel tightly, as it is designed so that no internal pressure builds
up. The stopper must not be too tight fitting, or the container may be damaged or burst. Never fill the container more full than the bottom of the neckline.
When measuring nitrogen use metal, plastic or wood. Never use a tube, as the nitrogen may spurt up through the tube and splash out. Dispose of nitrogen
on the ground, never on concrete or blacktop surfaces.
Tank maintenance:
Never clean with abrasive cleaners, use mild detergent and water and always wipe dry. Remember that the liquid nitrogen is evaporating constantly and
must be replaced periodically. The evaporation rate will depend upon the use, age and condition of the vessel.
Handling the Container:
Do not drop or tip the container. Do not slide, roll or walk the unit, because the vibration or shock can result in partial or total vacuum loss. If it’s too heavy to
carry, use a roller base.
Caution:
One liter of liquid nitrogen produces 25 cubic feet of gas, displacing oxygen in the surrounding area. Always work in a well ventilated area. Call for medical
help immediately in the event someone is seriously splashed by nitrogen, or becomes dizzy or loses consciousness after exposure to liquid nitrogen.
Transferring Semen:
The frozen semen will arrive in a shipping container, often a short hold-time container that will need to be promptly unloaded and returned to the semen
broker. If you are unskilled at transferring frozen semen, try to work with a veterinarian or other skilled technician on your first attempt. Some shipping tanks
will arrive with the straws already in goblets and on canes. These are relatively easy to transfer. Loose straws require more skill.
Important:
No matter how your semen arrives, it is critical to remember that when frozen semen is exposed to thawing temperatures for more than three seconds,
cellular damage may occur. Therefore, it is important to work quickly. If you have not completed the transfer in three seconds, dip the canister back down into
the tank to re-chill it, and try again.
If your straws of semen arrive loose in canister, you must first transfer them into goblets, and then snap the goblets onto canes for storage. Pre-chill the
goblets and canes before use, and have them ready in a canister.
Steps to Transfer Semen:
Arrange the tanks, and chairs for the handlers to sit on, in a well-lighted and ventilated area.
Keep the canisters you are working with two inches below the neck of the tanks at all times, and dip them back down into the nitrogen every few seconds to
keep them cold.
With the canisters pulled up to two inches below the neck of the shipper, grasp a straw with your straw tweezers, identify it, remove it and transfer it into a
chilled goblet. Immediately re-submerge the canisters.
Next, have your assistant pull up a canister containing a chilled cane marked with the stallion’s name, snap the goblet onto it , and re-submerge. Some
people combine these steps, by having the goblets attached to the canes before transferring the straws.
Remember to take it step-by-step. First, the straws need to be identified. Next they are sorted into goblets. Finally, the goblets are snapped onto canes. Re-
submerge every three seconds and/or between each step. Make sure all the equipment is pre-chilled. Soon you will be handling and transferring frozen
semen like a pro!
Timing is critical. Research has shown that cellular damage occurs when the semen is exposed to room temperatures for longer than three seconds. If the
straws have not been successfully transferred within three seconds, they should be re-submerged in the tank to maintain their temperature.
Work at least two inches below the neck of the tank at all times, as the temperature near the top of the neck can be several degrees warmer, and the risk of
cellular damage exists.
So far a description of handling frozen sperms.
The STDCOA has a contract with a Veterinarien in Houston. A specialist for insemination. He will store the sperms for us 99$ per year) and also he will ship
the straws to people including the paperwork DNA for AKC., they want to breed Cuvac. We need this step here in USA, because Cuvacowner are living so far
apart.
Also we have the chance, to offer a varity of different sperms. All sperms stored there need to have the breeding certificate of the STDCOA/AKC. Meaning: A.
AKC registered; B. OFA prooven;
Some breeders are opting to handle and store their own frozen semen, both to avoid storage costs and for the convenience of having their semen close at
hand. Handling and storing frozen semen is not difficult, but it must be done properly and safely. With the right equipment and practice, anyone can handle
and store their own frozen semen.
Basics:
Frozen semen is packaged in straws labeled with the Sire's name, which are put into cup-like plastic cylinders called goblets, which are then snapped onto
aluminum canes for storage. The canes have a label on top, where the Sire's name is written in permanent marker (a fine point “Sharpie” marker works well
for this). Straws, canes, and goblets are handled with straw tweezers. Protect fingers from nitrogen burns by wearing thin gloves.
Storage Tank:
The first item one needs for storage of frozen semen is, of course, a storage tank. There are many makes and models of tanks, but all are essentially the
same, being large cylinders of stainless steel or aluminum, with an inner vacuum lining somewhat like that of a thermos. There are from one to six storage
canisters inside. A canister sits well down inside the tank, and is pulled up by a long handle which notches into a groove in the neck of the tank. A used
storage tank can be purchased from representatives who service semen storage tanks for dairies and beef operations.
A. I. supply companies and frozen semen brokers also sell used tanks. The main difference between an older, used tank and a new one is the hold-time, or
the frequency with which the tank needs to be supplied with liquid nitrogen. A new tank can be topped-off every four months, while a used one will probably
need to be serviced every two months. As long as a tank is not frosting up on its exterior after filling, it is a secure tank. All tanks should be checked weekly
for signs of leakage and measuring of the nitrogen level. This is done by inserting a measuring device down the center of the tank. A tank should be kept
about half full, and its level never allowed to drop below three inches.
Equipment and Supplies:
Liquid nitrogen--available from welding and medical supply shops or from “door-to-door” suppliers
Liquid nitrogen measure--available from suppliers or make your own--use wood, plastic or metal--no cylindrical measures
Thin latex or cotton gloves--to protect fingers from nitrogen burns
Long-sleeved shirt--to protect skin against accidental splashing of nitrogen
Safety glasses--for eye protection
Straw tweezers--plastic (may be best for beginners) or stainless, for handling the individual straws, goblets and canes
Assistant--working between two tanks requires at least two people
Filling Containers:
Fill the vessels slowly to minimize contraction and expansion stresses. Never seal the vessel tightly, as it is designed so that no internal pressure builds
up. The stopper must not be too tight fitting, or the container may be damaged or burst. Never fill the container more full than the bottom of the neckline.
When measuring nitrogen use metal, plastic or wood. Never use a tube, as the nitrogen may spurt up through the tube and splash out. Dispose of nitrogen
on the ground, never on concrete or blacktop surfaces.
Tank maintenance:
Never clean with abrasive cleaners, use mild detergent and water and always wipe dry. Remember that the liquid nitrogen is evaporating constantly and
must be replaced periodically. The evaporation rate will depend upon the use, age and condition of the vessel.
Handling the Container:
Do not drop or tip the container. Do not slide, roll or walk the unit, because the vibration or shock can result in partial or total vacuum loss. If it’s too heavy to
carry, use a roller base.
Caution:
One liter of liquid nitrogen produces 25 cubic feet of gas, displacing oxygen in the surrounding area. Always work in a well ventilated area. Call for medical
help immediately in the event someone is seriously splashed by nitrogen, or becomes dizzy or loses consciousness after exposure to liquid nitrogen.
Transferring Semen:
The frozen semen will arrive in a shipping container, often a short hold-time container that will need to be promptly unloaded and returned to the semen
broker. If you are unskilled at transferring frozen semen, try to work with a veterinarian or other skilled technician on your first attempt. Some shipping tanks
will arrive with the straws already in goblets and on canes. These are relatively easy to transfer. Loose straws require more skill.
Important:
No matter how your semen arrives, it is critical to remember that when frozen semen is exposed to thawing temperatures for more than three seconds,
cellular damage may occur. Therefore, it is important to work quickly. If you have not completed the transfer in three seconds, dip the canister back down into
the tank to re-chill it, and try again.
If your straws of semen arrive loose in canister, you must first transfer them into goblets, and then snap the goblets onto canes for storage. Pre-chill the
goblets and canes before use, and have them ready in a canister.
Steps to Transfer Semen:
Arrange the tanks, and chairs for the handlers to sit on, in a well-lighted and ventilated area.
Keep the canisters you are working with two inches below the neck of the tanks at all times, and dip them back down into the nitrogen every few seconds to
keep them cold.
With the canisters pulled up to two inches below the neck of the shipper, grasp a straw with your straw tweezers, identify it, remove it and transfer it into a
chilled goblet. Immediately re-submerge the canisters.
Next, have your assistant pull up a canister containing a chilled cane marked with the stallion’s name, snap the goblet onto it , and re-submerge. Some
people combine these steps, by having the goblets attached to the canes before transferring the straws.
Remember to take it step-by-step. First, the straws need to be identified. Next they are sorted into goblets. Finally, the goblets are snapped onto canes. Re-
submerge every three seconds and/or between each step. Make sure all the equipment is pre-chilled. Soon you will be handling and transferring frozen
semen like a pro!
Timing is critical. Research has shown that cellular damage occurs when the semen is exposed to room temperatures for longer than three seconds. If the
straws have not been successfully transferred within three seconds, they should be re-submerged in the tank to maintain their temperature.
Work at least two inches below the neck of the tank at all times, as the temperature near the top of the neck can be several degrees warmer, and the risk of
cellular damage exists.
So far a description of handling frozen sperms.
The STDCOA has a contract with a Veterinarien in Houston. A specialist for insemination. He will store the sperms for us 99$ per year) and also he will ship
the straws to people including the paperwork DNA for AKC., they want to breed Cuvac. We need this step here in USA, because Cuvacowner are living so far
apart.
Also we have the chance, to offer a varity of different sperms. All sperms stored there need to have the breeding certificate of the STDCOA/AKC. Meaning: A.
AKC registered; B. OFA prooven;
Signs of Heat
The first sign of a female (Dam) coming "Into Season" is often swelling of the Vulva. This swelling can occur a week before bleeding, or the day
before. Other signs of heat are behavioral changes, your Dam may start to hump other dams, or pups or even your leg. She may also begin to lick her
self a lot.
If you own more than one dam, they will usually cycle together, One dam in heat, will bring other dams into heat.
A Female, should NEVER be bred on her first heat,(she has immature eggs) and preferably not her second either. The rule of thumb that works best
is to breed on the third season, or at 1.5 to 2 years old, and after all health tests have been passed.
A dam in heat, and almost ready to be bred you really need to stand your girl up, and look at the vulva, it will tip upwards, and change position slightly
to make it easier for the male to penetrate, also if you insert a gloved finger it will squeeze your finger around can smell. Her discharge will have
changed from bright red, to a more yellow color.
Other signs of "ready to breed", is her willingness to stand for the male, and she will hold her tail off to the side called "Flagging", she will often back
her butt up to your leg as well.
A vet has ways to tell when she is fertile, but you still have to watch for the swelling and bleeding.
You will notice after her first heat, that her teats will be more noticeable.
After heat, tiny pink, more noticeable boobies.
So your dog come in heat
The normal and most common is for the Dam to come into heat at 6 months of age and then every 6 months there after.
Some Dams come in at 4 months and some at 12 months for their first heat.
Some every 6 months and some every 5 to 11 months. All Dams vary, so you should keep track of what your dam is doing and when.
Most Breeders Breed the Dams on 3rd heat or after 1.5 or 2 years of age when proper genetic testing is complete and the Vet gives approval that
Dam is an adult and ready.
Clubrules: Dams are ready to breed after the OFA test of hips is done with a good result after they got 2 years old.
SO, WHEN IS SHE FERTILE?
If you have the male with you he will tell you. Normally it is about 12 days after the bleeding starts. When the bleeding has slowed and thinned to pink.
The male will know, he will regularly check, lick, analyze in his build in lab ;-)
BUT, if you are taking your Dam to the Sire the use of a Vet is needed.
On day 1 call your vet for instruction. He will likely have you come in for a SMEAR, on day 5, 7 & 9 and will do a Blood Progesterone test on day 9 to 11.
Then you will know Exactly when the peek is. This is the type of testing the Vet does if they are doing artificial insemination or a surgical implant.
This blood test, measures in nonamoles, and nanograms, Each measurement is different. It tests her progesterone levels, and lets you know when
she drops eggs and when the eggs will ripen.
Recently we bred our girl, she was (nanomoles per liter)
7 nanomoles = 2 nanograms
2.5 on day 7, 4.2 on day 9
7.0 on day 11 and 16.1 on day 13 (ovulation)
A smear, done earlier in the cycle, will test for cornification. it is not as accurate, but when she is fully cornified, she is ready to breed.
puppies are born 63 days from ovulation. (not 63 days from breeding, as the male can breed her several days before, and after ovulation)
Fresh Sperm can live 5 days, (maybe 7 days at most). Chilled sperm lasts 12 (max 24) hours after insertion. Frozen sperm lasts 1 (2) hours after
inserted .
An egg lives 5 days. But on day 1 the egg is immature and cannot be penetrated. Day 3 the egg will be ripe, and this is the best day to inseminate. Day
4, eggs are still ripe, Day 5 the eggs are dying.
The first sign of a female (Dam) coming "Into Season" is often swelling of the Vulva. This swelling can occur a week before bleeding, or the day
before. Other signs of heat are behavioral changes, your Dam may start to hump other dams, or pups or even your leg. She may also begin to lick her
self a lot.
If you own more than one dam, they will usually cycle together, One dam in heat, will bring other dams into heat.
A Female, should NEVER be bred on her first heat,(she has immature eggs) and preferably not her second either. The rule of thumb that works best
is to breed on the third season, or at 1.5 to 2 years old, and after all health tests have been passed.
A dam in heat, and almost ready to be bred you really need to stand your girl up, and look at the vulva, it will tip upwards, and change position slightly
to make it easier for the male to penetrate, also if you insert a gloved finger it will squeeze your finger around can smell. Her discharge will have
changed from bright red, to a more yellow color.
Other signs of "ready to breed", is her willingness to stand for the male, and she will hold her tail off to the side called "Flagging", she will often back
her butt up to your leg as well.
A vet has ways to tell when she is fertile, but you still have to watch for the swelling and bleeding.
You will notice after her first heat, that her teats will be more noticeable.
After heat, tiny pink, more noticeable boobies.
So your dog come in heat
The normal and most common is for the Dam to come into heat at 6 months of age and then every 6 months there after.
Some Dams come in at 4 months and some at 12 months for their first heat.
Some every 6 months and some every 5 to 11 months. All Dams vary, so you should keep track of what your dam is doing and when.
Most Breeders Breed the Dams on 3rd heat or after 1.5 or 2 years of age when proper genetic testing is complete and the Vet gives approval that
Dam is an adult and ready.
Clubrules: Dams are ready to breed after the OFA test of hips is done with a good result after they got 2 years old.
SO, WHEN IS SHE FERTILE?
If you have the male with you he will tell you. Normally it is about 12 days after the bleeding starts. When the bleeding has slowed and thinned to pink.
The male will know, he will regularly check, lick, analyze in his build in lab ;-)
BUT, if you are taking your Dam to the Sire the use of a Vet is needed.
On day 1 call your vet for instruction. He will likely have you come in for a SMEAR, on day 5, 7 & 9 and will do a Blood Progesterone test on day 9 to 11.
Then you will know Exactly when the peek is. This is the type of testing the Vet does if they are doing artificial insemination or a surgical implant.
This blood test, measures in nonamoles, and nanograms, Each measurement is different. It tests her progesterone levels, and lets you know when
she drops eggs and when the eggs will ripen.
Recently we bred our girl, she was (nanomoles per liter)
7 nanomoles = 2 nanograms
2.5 on day 7, 4.2 on day 9
7.0 on day 11 and 16.1 on day 13 (ovulation)
A smear, done earlier in the cycle, will test for cornification. it is not as accurate, but when she is fully cornified, she is ready to breed.
puppies are born 63 days from ovulation. (not 63 days from breeding, as the male can breed her several days before, and after ovulation)
Fresh Sperm can live 5 days, (maybe 7 days at most). Chilled sperm lasts 12 (max 24) hours after insertion. Frozen sperm lasts 1 (2) hours after
inserted .
An egg lives 5 days. But on day 1 the egg is immature and cannot be penetrated. Day 3 the egg will be ripe, and this is the best day to inseminate. Day
4, eggs are still ripe, Day 5 the eggs are dying.
In 2012 are first time in history of the Club minimum 4 litter planned.
| planned litter in 2012 in USA: Kennel Western Wynds Kennel Slovak Mountain Kennel vom Boehmerwald Kennel High Tatra Kennel Mika |
the Kennel vom Boehmerwald is now in TEXAS/USA Obella
will be x-rayed in April 2012, Cedrik Orlicky talisman is
excellent, Ulka and Girly are very good.
1 litter in 2008
1 litter in 2010
1 litter in 2011
1 litter in 2012
will be x-rayed in April 2012, Cedrik Orlicky talisman is
excellent, Ulka and Girly are very good.
1 litter in 2008
1 litter in 2010
1 litter in 2011
1 litter in 2012
Kennel Western Wynds/Texas
Valika Cerny koralek is x-rayed excellent
1 litter in 2010
Valika Cerny koralek is x-rayed excellent
1 litter in 2010
Hip Dysplasia is a terrible genetic disease because of the various degrees of arthritis (also called
degenerative joint disease, arthrosis, osteoarthrosis) it can eventually produce, leading to pain and
debilitation.
The very first step in the development of arthritis is articular cartilage (the type of cartilage lining the
joint) damage due to the inherited bad biomechanics of an abnormally developed hip joint. Traumatic
articular fracture through the joint surface is another way cartilage is damaged. With cartilage damage,
lots of degradative enzymes are released into the joint. These enzymes degrade and decrease the
synthesis of important constituent molecules that form hyaline cartilage called proteoglycans. This
causes the cartilage to lose its thickness and elasticity, which are important in absorbing mechanical
loads placed across the joint during movement. Eventually, more debris and enzymes spill into the
joint fluid and destroy molecules called glycosaminoglycan and hyaluronate which are important
precursors that form the cartilage proteoglycans. The joint's lubrication and ability to block inflammatory
cells are lost and the debris-tainted joint fluid loses its ability to properly nourish the cartilage through
impairment of nutrient-waste exchange across the joint cartilage cells. The damage then spreads to the
synovial membrane lining the joint capsule and more degradative enzymes and inflammatory cells
stream into the joint. Full thickness loss of cartilage allows the synovial fluid to contact nerve endings
in the subchondral bone, resulting in pain. In an attempt to stabilize the joint to decrease the pain, the
animal's body produces new bone at the edges of the joint surface, joint capsule, ligament and muscle
attachments (bone spurs). The joint capsule also eventually thickens and the joint's range of motion
decreases.
No one can predict when or even if a dysplastic dog will start showing clinical signs of lameness due
to pain. There are multiple environmental factors such as caloric intake, level of exercise, and weather
that can affect the severity of clinical signs and phenotypic expression (radiographic changes). There is
no rhyme or reason to the severity of radiographic changes correlated with the clinical findings. There
are a number of dysplastic dogs with severe arthritis that run, jump, and play as if nothing is wrong and
some dogs with barely any arthritic radiographic changes that are severely lame.
OFFAhip dysplasia
Polo Janin ranc and Clea spod Babej hory are x-rayed. Now waiting for the
OFFA result. Both are looking excellent
OFFA result. Both are looking excellent
Yanka Texas vom Boehmerwald was pre-x-rayed and she is looking excellent